11/29/11

Family Newsletter

I seriously wish I was better at blogging!  It is a goal of mine.  I will do better, hopefully next semester, because I want to record my experiences just as much as I want to share them.  Below I am copying the letter I just wrote for my dad's side of the family.  My uncle compiles a biannual collection of letters, photos, and random news tidbits for a MacCormack family newsletter.  I managed to squeak this one out.


Dear MacCormacks,

It has reached the “now or never” point of no return for newsletter blogging.  So here we go, I am writing to you from my desk of Lincoln Community School in Accra, Ghana.  The time is 12:27 GMT and I have 33 minutes to finish my lunch, type a newsletter, plan my math lesson, and… relax?   You can check out my school’s website at: http://www.lincoln.edu.gh
They have lots of very cool information, even about life in Ghana, probably more than I will be able share now.  I would direct you towards my personal blog except that it’s essentially nonexistent at this point.  I had strong intentions to blog but have quickly become swept up in teaching life at an international school.  I think there’s a bit of a running joke that teachers can be the masters of their domain inside the classroom; they can give and give and give all day, then when it comes to taking care of their personal lives (and families), everything falls to pieces!

Anyway, the good news is that I am very happy here.  I do not come from a tropical climate or exotic culture, but somehow I enjoy these things and feel more comfortable living abroad more than I am in the USA.  I have quickly adjusted to life bordering the equator and life in Africa.  It’s super hot, the food is spicy, the music is loud, there’s dancing, kids, people, and garbage everywhere, but overall I love it. 

Stereotypes about Africa abound, especially in the USA.  People often think that life in Africa is challenging, or that everyone’s poor, or maybe has malaria, among other things.   I am writing to debunk those philosophies wholeheartedly.  Africa, and especially Ghana (although developing) has a sizable middle class.  Africa, on the whole, also has a social system set up such that those who “have” live very well.  Don’t get me wrong, there are very poor people, and there are social issues.  Yet, there are also rich and moderately wealthy people who enjoy a high standard of living.  Even many poor people in the countryside drink mountain stream water, have plenty of fresh fruit and veg, and also have a high quality of life…

Personally, I’m almost embarrassed to admit that my apartment here is bigger than any apartment I have ever lived in.  I live alone and I have a spare bedroom and bathroom.  It is the first time in my life that I have 2 bathrooms!  I have somebody who cooks and cleans for me.  She also does food shopping, laundry, and ironing.  My grandma isn’t wrong when she says that I’m getting spoiled and may never want to return.  There are night clubs that could exist anywhere in the world, world class restaurants and most Western amenities.  We have a mall and a Shoprite, but why would I shop there when I can get cheap vegetables at local fruit stands, or on the roadside out of my driver’s side window?!

Some of the unique and amazing things are that people do truly carry everything on their heads.  Water, coolers, stores, firewood, mobile restaurants, you name it.  If it exists, it can be, and is carried on heads.  Babies are also carried on backs.  I met a friend who recently tied her baby boy to my  back and it was so comfortable!  When my time comes you can bet I will be using that technique J   The traditional cloth in Ghana is called Kente and I already have a series of beautiful traditional outfits.  (The seamstress comes to my house for measurements and deliveries)!

The school is of the highest calibur I have yet to experience.   I have been transformed into a classroom teacher, and my second graders are extremely advanced.  Most of them are bilinguals, hailng from all over the world including Ghana, Ethiopia, Somalia, South Africa, India, Pakistan, Lebanon, the USA, Paraguay, Holland, Belgium, Norway, and South Korea.  The parent support is also unparalleled.  I feel lucky to be a part of this educational community. 

I don’t have much time left today except to say that I am doing very well.  Accra is on the coast so I am able to go to the beach most weekends.  I will be visiting a childhood friend living in Gambia and Senegal for the 3 week winter break.  My school will fly me home over the summer, and also pay for some training at the Colombia taecher’s college in NYC.   I signed a 2 year contract so I know that I’ll be here next year as well!  Hope you all are well. 

All my love, Sage

9/14/11

GHANA


From 31 July, 2011

My British friend Hazel bought me a Culture Smart! Essential Guide to Customs & Culture: Ghana.  I haven’t been able to put down this handy dandy little book since I got it.  While doing my daily reading I have also been doing my typical underlining, circling, highlighting, and annotating.  As I sit in the Frankfurt airport awaiting my connecting flight to Accra, I feel compelled to share some of the beautiful things I have learned about my future home. 

CULTURE

“It is primarily the people of Ghana who make the biggest impression.  It is due to their incredible hospitality and love of peace that Ghana has a claim to be the safest and friendliest country in Africa.  Ghanaians are very welcoming to foreign guests, respectful to each other, strong followers of tradition, and have deep familial and communal values”, (Utley, 8). 

“For visitors coming from developed countries with their associated problems of crime, antisocial behavior, family breakdown, disrespectful children, unfriendliness, loneliness, high cost of living, and terrible weather, Ghana comes as a wonderfully refreshing change, with valuable lessons to teach the outside world”, (Utley, 8). 

“Positive character traits inculcated in Ghanaians include probity, patience, fairness, humility, gratitude, temperance, perseverance, trustworthiness, chastity before marriage, and faithfulness in marriage” (50). 

“Westerners are generally viewed as having lower moral standards than Ghanaians.  Social breakdown, warmongering, sexual depravity, marginalization of the older generation, and disrespectful standards of dressing and behavior all contribute to this view” (52). 

GEOGRAPHY, FLORA & FAUNA

“Ghana is a very fertile and rich land, particularly in the south, and is noted for its plentiful supply of yams, cassava, cocoa, rubber, maize, palm products, pineapples, oranges, papayas, avocados, plantains, bananas, and pepper to name but a few”, (Utley, 15). 

“[The Ghanaian flag] consists of red, gold, and green horizontal stripes with a black star in the middle.  Red signifies the blood of those who died in the country’s struggle for independence.  Gold represents Ghana’s great mineral wealth, and green denotes its lush forests and farmland”, (Utley, 21). 

ECONOMY

“Ghana’s main exports are cocoa and cocoa products (highest in Africa), aluminum, gold (second highest in Africa), diamonds, manganese, bauxite, fruits and fruit juices, and timber… Tourism is the third highest earner of foreign exchange and is a rapidly growing industry.  Other major industries include hydroelectricity, brewing, aluminum smelting, furniture making, tuna canning, and chemicals production, but most of the population relies on subsistence agriculture” (38). 

“Major imported materials are machinery and transport equipment, fuel, manufactured goods, chemicals, and food items” (38).  

HISTORY

“Unfortunately, the economic desires of the Europeans did not allow Africa to develop along its own lines, and what we see now is modern African countries that were simply carved out by Europeans (24)… Ghana’s rich natural resources and ease of access for ships meant that the vast majority of [European] forts on the West African coast were built there”, (Utley, 25). 

“The transatlantic slave trade made fortunes for the white slave traders and plantation owners, while brutally stripping Africa of its human resources… Four hundred years and more than 50 million souls suggest… [that] the lucrative triangular trade was lining somebody’s pockets.  It is remarkable that the full story of this horrific trade is only just starting to be told in Western schools.  Worse still, there appears to be no room in the curriculum for this era to be studied at all in Ghanaian schools” (Utley, 26). 

“It is true that it was Africans themselves who sold their countrymen into slavery by trading captives of war, that many (especially the Ashantis) grew rich on this trade, and that local chiefs allowed the Europeans to build their slave castles on the coast”, (Utley, 26). 

“One Ghanaian language even has eight different words for different sorts of slave, showing that slavery was an existing practice before the arrival of the Europeans.  However, these ‘slaves’ were more akin to ‘househelps’ who retained their human rights and ability to become free.  Maltreatment of these servants was not allowed (27).  [Thus], Ghanaians accept the role their own forefathers played in the trade, but some maintain that they would have never participated to such an extent, had they known the terrible fate of the captives”, (Utley, 26). 

[During and after colonization], “Africa was divided up, with no thought given to existing tribal groups, into an unnatural jigsaw with pieces belonging to Britain, France, Portugal, Spain, Belgium, Germany and Italy.  Even after independence, these artificial divisions remain and are the cause of many of modern Africa’s problems” (28). 

[Yet], “It cannot be argued that the colonial administration did not do anything to help the local people.  Roads, schools, hospitals, and infrastructure were built, agriculture and industry were developed, opportunities for overseas study were given, and a legacy of economic structures was left in place” (32). 

“Ghana was the first black African country to achieve independence” (33). 

COMMUNAL VALUES AND ATTITUDES

“The secret to Ghana’s peace and friendliness lies in the moral values of its people.  These values derive from the importance they set on social harmony and the well being of others, not just of the individual.  This is manifested in the Ghanaian virtues of hospitality, kindness, compassion, generosity, faithfulness, and truthfulness, and their quest for peace, justice, dignity, and self-respect” (40). 

“Ghanaians recognize the dignity of their fellow human beings and have a deep and abiding concern for human welfare and happiness.  Human relationships are considered the most valuable of possessions.  The human being is more beautiful than gold.  Mutual help, collective responsibility, and reciprocal obligations are regarded as important” (41). 

FAMILY

“A child’s family is much more important than his or her parents and siblings.  As part of a huge extended family, a child has the opportunity to learn from, and be cared for by, dozens of near relatives” (46). 

“A family in Ghana… is far more than the typical Western unit of parent(s) and two children… The language used to describe the family relations describes this strong bond; your sibling’s children can be referred to as your children, your uncle as your father, and your cousins as your brothers and sisters.  So don’t be confused when your friend introduces you to two or more of his fathers!” (91). 

“Parents cherish their children and bring them up to be virtuous, respectful, and responsible” (44). 

“Tradition, religion, and strong familial and communal bonds all work together to give a Ghanaian clear moral guidelines, and the development of a good character is considered vital.  Moral values are instilled in a Ghanaian from birth, and can be divided into those values affecting other people, and those pertaining to oneself.  The ethic of responsibility for others is always put above an individual’s rights.  If you trample on somebody else’s things while looking to find your own, you will never find them” (49). 

More Proverbs:

If one person eats all the honey, he is sure to get a stomach ache (50). 

If you don’t allow your neighbor to count to nine, you will not be able to count to ten (50). 

The person who goes to fetch water does not drink mud (51). 

When someone is crying, your crying helps him (64). 

Just as someone has looked after you when you were growing your teeth, so should you look after them when they are losing theirs (53). 

RESPECT FOR ELDERS

“Older people are accorded massive respect in Ghana.  It is believed that they have reached old age thorough living in harmony both with the ancestral spirits and with natural forces” (52). 

MAKING FRIENDS

“In the friendliest country on the planet, making friends is unavoidable” (72). 

“Social interaction, communality, and friendship are fundamental principles guiding Ghanaian’s lives, and this helps to create a culture of warmth, safety, and peace” (72). 

SOCIALIZING AND TIME OUT

“Ghanaians have a lot of leisure time, love socializing, and do this in a very relaxed and informal way, often just sitting by the roadside and watching life to by, without feeling the need to ‘go out and do something together’ ” (100). 

“Very often, the most enlightening experiences don’t require huge expenditure and travel; it can all happen just on your doorstep” (100). 

“On the whole, Ghanaians are intelligent, well-educated, and sociable people and almost everyone you meet, especially in the professional capacity, will speak very good English” (156). 

CONCLUSION

“Ghana is rapidly developing an excellent reputation among travelers who are looking for a genuine African experience without fear of crime, hassle, underdevelopment, or lack of facilities” (163). 

“It is a beacon of democracy and stability on the continent.  This development is continuing apace, and all the right wheels are in motion in order for it to achieve its goal of becoming a middle-income country with decent education, good health and jobs for all” (163). 

“We have seen that it is the Ghanaians themselves who are responsible for making Ghana the gem that it is.  They have, with reason, been described as the friendliest people in the world” (164). 

Utley, Ian.  Culture Smart! Ghana.  Kuperart publishing of Bravo Ltd. Great Britain, (2011).  

9/7/11

Kokrobité Beach


I am very proud of this photo!   Last weekend we went to Kokrobité Beach, about an hour west of Accra.  These lovely children were selling the best looking tomatoes any of us  had seen in a long time.  I resisted the urge to take a picture when they were up close, for risk of ruining the moment per se.  Also my camera was in the car.  When I peeked at them walking away, though, I made a mad dash for the camera because of just how amazing they looked.  I believe it is something about the red of the fruit against the green haze of the ocean.  Anyway, check out my Picasa albums for a few more shots from that weekend.   Bless     https://picasaweb.google.com/sagealetheia

9/5/11

Pure Love


It was a long Monday.  I stepped out to grab a bottle of wine from the neighborhood corner store.  As I was leaving a small group of children came quickly around the corner.  Before I knew it one of them, about 3 years, had galloped up to me, thrown her arms around me, and held me in a tight embrace.   Without another interaction, or any words exchanged, they were on their way. 

Things like this happen all the time in Ghana!  Sometimes it doesn’t seem possible that an entire country of people could be on such a seemingly uniform positive wavelength.  Yet it happens all the time.  Compliments abound.  Joy is ubiquitous.  People are incredibly friendly. 

I need to schedule in ‘people time’ when going to and fro work.  This morning on my way to work the man selling the papers, whom I pass daily and who often stops me to engage in a small Twi lesson, calmly mentioned, “You are looking gorgeous this morning”.  It’s not just a man thing either.  It can often take me an hour to walk 3 blocks on my way home for having to sit and chat with friends in each of the local shops, where mutual compliments fly. 

Yesterday, stepping out of the weekend getaway beach hotel, two separate ladies on staff both mentioned how beautiful I was looking.  “You are looking so beautiful today”; “You are looking so beautiful and nice”.  This has also happened with random women strangers on the street. 

Again yesterday, when we were driving through a small coastal village a small boy on the side of the street exclaimed, “I LOVE YOU”, as our car passed by.  Minutes later, I still felt awed by the genuine expression of love came so easily from such a small boy, with no pretense and no reward.  It just came bursting out of him. 

We all have a lot to learn from Ghanaians.  I am doing my best, starting with learning how to graciously accept compliments, be thankful, and to send them right back out again.  With a million and one more blog ideas I will sign off now and plan on writing again soon.  And guess what, I love you, I miss you, and you are looking BEAUTIFUL today!   

7/27/11

MOVING

Creating a blog is funny.  Even the word blog is funny.  Something about the consonants 'B' and 'L', together with the sound 'OG', just sounds ridiculous.  BLOG.  It's not a pretty word.  The language analyst in me genuinely wants to look up, and someday probably will, whether or not French or Spanish have any words the start with "BL".  They are much prettier languages.  My instinct tells me no, probably not.  Only English, and maybe German, would ever start a word with BL, and end it with OG.  Except in German it would probably be something like blogenscheift.  

Anyway, this is my BLOG.  Then there's the question of, what should I post?  Should it be mostly about school?  Shall I include stories about travels, or should it be more personal?  What is my audience, and who is reading?  Is this just for me, to have a written record of my experiences?  Or, is this blog more for my friends and family, to feel close to me when I am far?   I'm sure it can be anything I want it to be, but at the same time I feel like a kid who has too many choices and she can't make a decision.

The next issue with this BLOG is that I get ideas for posts, and never get around to writing.  Much of my experience, then, becomes an anticipatory experience regarding telling stories of my experiences.  Ok maybe not really, but I have had so many ideas in the past month and have barely gotten around to writing anything!  It all started leaving Denver and driving down to Santa Fe.  At that point, although my mother was following me with my belongings in tow, I was all alone.  I had 6 hours straight of being alone and thinking.  It was at that point that I had the original thought about the word blog.  I had about a million other thoughts too.  I remember feeling like I was solving all the problems of the world, and that if I'd only had a tape recorder, I would have been able to have a record of them.  Now all I'm left with is still questioning the 'bl', 'og' of blog.

Since spending a lovely time in Santa Fe with my mom and Chris, and their two cats Clark and Søl, I have been to New York, the Jersey Shore, and Paris.  I spent a lovely two weeks at home with my Bestemor Winnie, my cousins, and extended family.  I played in the pool and went to the beach.  I finalized details for shipping my belongings and moving to Africa.  Then my good friend Liliana came and we spent a few incredible days in New York City.  I was able to fit in lunch with my brother Orie, visited Harlem for the first time, along with many more things.  Then I re-packed downsized my belongings in preparation for ten Paris.  I am writing from our apartment across from the Sacré-Cœur.  We are in the Montmartre region, high up on a hill overlooking Paris and the Sacré-Cœur is a cathedral but it looks like a castle.  Although there are a lot of tourists, it is pretty cool living next to a big castle.

Paris is amazing.  I have been trying to stay away from making facebook posts.  It can be so addicting, and I also want to remain gracious and humble.  One of the unpublished posts in my head though, had something do to with questioning how everybody and everything in Paris can be so beautiful, and so sexy.  Regardless, I have posted some pictures on FB, although for the purposes of this blog I hope to soon upload pics to my Google Picasa account.  I practically haven't used that account since living in Oaxaca.  Picasa will be my teach and live abroad collection of photo albums.  The last time I blogged was also in Oaxaca :)  I feel as though I still have a lot to learn about blogging.  I have some very helpful friends who should be able to help me sort out uploading pictures and videos, as well as changing the format etc.   Expect some changes to Ms. TeachLoveDance in good time.  Oh great, now the blog has gender.  It's crazy how we can seem to have relationships and even personify inanimate or online things!

Paris.  My dear friend Hazel met me for the first weekend in Paris.  Friday night we went out to a spot we found last year called 'Gibus' at the metro Republique.  We danced and sweat to our hearts' delight.  Some of my favorite tunes from the night were African, which only made me more excited for my upcoming adventure.  It was one of those nights when I went to bed with a wet head and it wasn't because I showered.  Now I am here with my mom and Chris!  Mom wanted to celebrate her 50th birthday in style!  The original idea was to have a huge family reunion in a village in Southern France or Tuscany.  I still like that idea, so maybe we can shoot for her 60th regardless, here we are!  It's nearly noon and I should go wake them soon, but not before some of my favorite moments from yesterday.

After their arrival we went out to our first french meal which included pâté, lamb, chicken, roast potatoes, "de la moutarde, du pain, de l'eau", red wine, creme brulée, and baguette.  Our restaurant had a patio outside on the street, as most do in Paris, where we sat appreciating the French fashion, French language, and France in general.  Mom and Chris couldn't believe how many people had baguette.  Well, it helped that we were sitting right next to a Boulanger, or bakery, but still.  They kept remarking "there's another one!", and another, and another.  When in France, it really does seem, that everyone has a baguette under their arm.

We spent the afternoon walking from Montmartre to La Seine, the main river running through Paris.  In walking from here to there we came across many things French, including Fromageries where we were introduced to fabulous French cheeses and sausisson or sausages.

One of my favorite parts of the evening was after we bought our first baguette.  Mom didn't think we looked complete without one!  Chris and I went into the boulangerie and selected among the various baguette, which we learned had different shapes and names due to the type of flour.  We, of course, picked the longest and most French looking baguette.  Not seconds after stepping proudly back on the street, approaching mom proudly with our baguette, did Chris stick the whole thing up to his mouth and take a bite.  I wish I would have had my camera.  I'm sure he committed something equivalent to a sin in France, the more common practice being to tear off the crunchy, nubby end with your hands.  Something about the look of the long loaf in his hands, being periodically raised to his mouth, was one of the most comical and sweet things I have seen in a long, long time.  Of course we later engaged in a conversation about how to hold the baguette.  Must it be in the arms or can it be in the hands?  When in Rome.

I leave you now, to wake up my sleeping parents and engage in what is sure to be another fun filled day roaming the streets of Paris.  I feel the need to say I love you all, because I do.  Again, I am grateful and giving thanks for these beautiful days and this beautiful life.  Peace, LOVE SAGE.

7/7/11

Memories

My move is official, Denver is no longer my home.  The last few months were so sweet, I think especially because I knew I was leaving.  I was enjoying everything about Denver and life out west.  Giving thanks has been a regular part of my life these days!

Recently I was reflecting on my circle of Denver dancer friends, and how I experienced a new type of friendship for the first time in my life.  In the past I had childhood friends, neighbor friends, high school friends, college friends, my boyfriend's friends, work friends, roommates, grad degree friends, etc.  This past year, however, I made friends through a common bond.   I started dancing regularly.  Mondays was Afro-Cuban, Thursdays was Afro-Caribe, Saturdays was African.  I also dabbled in Salsa, Contemporary African, Ballet and Flamenco.  Dancing makes me happier than almost anything on earth.  It was at those dance classes, and with those dance teachers, that I developed some of my strongest friendship bonds.... Not to discount any of my other friends!  To all my family and friends, I LOVE you.  I am so grateful to have you in my life, and for all of your love and support.  

It's been so long since I've blogged, and I have so many more ideas, memories, and stories to share.  Yet in honor of my dancer friends, and because this video is just that great, I am posting the going away gift that my beloved teacher and friend Eulanda made for me.  Thank you Eulanda, for inspiring me, challenging me, teaching me, and for creating this awesome video!

5/1/11

Milestones

Three months ago I flew to an International School job fair in Boston, not knowing what to think.  I was pretty sure I was wasting my time and money, due to the fact that I had decided to join a friend of mine living in Rio de Janeiro.  My thoughts at the time were: I am a young, single, enthusiastic professional; what would stop me from moving to Brazil?  Yet, I had spent the money on registration and a flight so I decided to go.  Besides, one can never have enough practice interviewing, right?

It turned out that I was granted, and had a fabulous interview, with an American International school in Accra, Ghana.  (In fact, I had interviewed with the same school a year prior, at which time I was not offered a position).  At the dinner social that first night, the principal I interviewed with suggested that I speak to the well reputed and well known head director.  I did, and he mentioned that he was interested in a second interview but that he already had 9:00, 10:00, and 11:00 appointments the next day.  I said I would take 8:00.

I woke up in my hotel room that next morning, wiggled my toes, and contemplated moving to Africa.  My gut instinct was to call my mother.  Of course, she could tell me what to do!  Then, my wisdom, my experience, and my conscience grasped hold of me.  No, I couldn't ask my mom, or anyone else.  Why? Because, neither she nor my best friend, nor anyone else would be moving.  I was the one who would be moving, therefore I was the one who had to make the decision.

I stood up and opened the curtains.  I will never forget the look of the massive orange sun rising over the city that day, and the tingling sensation that ran through my body.  This was a day that would decide my fate.  This was my time, this was it.  I arrived early for the interview.  They were impressed.  They mentioned being highly interested in my candidacy, however they had more interviews to honor.  I told them that I wouldn't start jumping up and down just yet.  A few anxious hours passed.

When they called me at noon to sign the contract and confirm the agreement, I had less than an hour to do all of the above, and get to the airport for my flight home.  For some reason I scheduled my flight home a day and a half before the fair ended, I think it was because I wanted to get home in time to go to my Saturday night dance club.  Regardless, they offered me the job.  I remember having my purple Oaxacan scarf in my hands at the time, and holding it up to my face to release a burst of enthusiasm.   When the directors offered to shake  my hands as a gesture of sealing the deal, I brushed them away and practically jumped into their arms, embracing them with all of my might.

While I do still have distant plans of moving to Brazil, those plans have been put on a minimum 2 year temporary hold.  There were so many factors contributing to my decision to move to Ghana.  Spending all my savings on a flight to Brazil, only to get there and have no job, no apartment, no money, and one friend, just didn't sound as appealing as the opportunity I had been presented with.  My decision to move to Ghana was based on forward movement professionally, personally, and financially.  Here are some of the factors that helped to seal the deal.

Honestly, my #1 requirement for any future locale was beach, check.  Then came all of the other considerations.  Personal connection with the directors, check. Capital city, check.  New country, check.  New continent, check.  IB educator training, check.  Airfare included, check.  Housing provided, check.  Potential to share housing with other young professionals, check.  Potential for savings, check.  Second grade teacher partner (who already has been teaching at the school for two years and whom I'm expected to work closely with), check.  Potential for lots of dance opportunities, check, check, check.   Lo and behold friends, I'm moving to AFRICA!

Fast forward.

Two months from now (today) I will be officially leaving Colorado.  Denver has been my home for the last three years, and they have been three incredibly powerful and transformative years.  Just the other day I realized exactly why this is the perfect time for me to leave.  The answer is because I am happy!  I am perfectly ready to leave because of the happiness that envelops my daily existence.  I love my life. I have such good fortune here in Denver.  I love my friends, my family, my roommates, my apartment, my house, my students, my colleagues, my dance classes, my weekend activities, the mountains, the city, everything.

I will take that gratitude forward with me on this next journey.  Stay tuned! XOXOX